{"id":6277,"date":"2021-04-01T15:05:17","date_gmt":"2021-04-01T13:05:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/beautytherapy.absolution-cosmetics.com\/?p=6277"},"modified":"2024-12-09T08:37:09","modified_gmt":"2024-12-09T07:37:09","slug":"rencontre-atelier-usage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/beautytherapy.absolution-cosmetics.com\/fr\/notre-actualite\/rencontre-atelier-usage\/","title":{"rendered":"Rencontre avec les cr\u00e9ateurs d’Atelier Usages : \u00ab Nos cr\u00e9ations racontent une histoire du territoire \u00bb"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Philippine Klahr et Guillaume Pavageau sont les cr\u00e9ateurs de la marque de pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter Atelier Usages. Activistes d\u2019une \u00ab mode utopique \u00bb \u2014 artisanale, \u00e9cologique et locale \u2014 ils s\u2019inspirent de la nature et des savoir-faire traditionnels pour fabriquer des v\u00eatements utilitaires qui ont une histoire. Apr\u00e8s deux ans pass\u00e9s \u00e0 Romans-sur-Is\u00e8re, c\u2019est \u00e0 Nantes qu\u2019ils poursuivent leur r\u00eave bien concret.<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Comment est n\u00e9 le projet ?<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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On avait des envies de changement apr\u00e8s nos exp\u00e9riences professionnelles pass\u00e9es (dans le design textile pour l\u2019une, le graphisme pour l\u2019autre). On s\u2019est retrouv\u00e9s dans une maison en Creuse, pour r\u00e9fl\u00e9chir \u00e0 notre projet. On voulait travailler sur la fili\u00e8re textile en g\u00e9n\u00e9ral, la d\u00e9couverte des diff\u00e9rents acteurs (filateurs, tisserands) nous a motiv\u00e9 \u00e0 valoriser leur travail en se concentrant sur les produits finis, les v\u00eatements. En tant que consommateurs, on connaissait la mode \u00e9thique, mais on a estim\u00e9 qu\u2019il y avait un manque sur l\u2019aspect culturel du v\u00eatement.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Qu\u2019entendez-vous par l\u00e0 ?<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Il s\u2019agit de se demander ce qu\u2019un v\u00eatement raconte du lieu o\u00f9 il est produit et port\u00e9. En quoi est-il embl\u00e9matique de la vie d\u2019un territoire ? Que nous dit-il de ses habitants ? Par le pass\u00e9, les r\u00e9ponses \u00e0 ces questions allaient de soi : en Normandie, on portait du lin, dans le Sud m\u00e9diterran\u00e9en, du coton, etc. Aujourd\u2019hui, nos v\u00eatements portent en eux l\u2019histoire de la mondialisation. Nous voulions proposer des cr\u00e9ations qui racontent une histoire plus locale et plus sensible.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Comment un v\u00eatement refl\u00e8te-t-il son territoire ?<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Pour notre collection \u00e9t\u00e9, La Vall\u00e9e, Philippine s\u2019est inspir\u00e9e de la g\u00e9ographie et de la nature de la Dr\u00f4me o\u00f9 nous vivions. Dans le cadre d\u2019une r\u00e9sidence avec les Ateliers M\u00e9dicis, elle a exp\u00e9riment\u00e9 des teintures v\u00e9g\u00e9tales \u00e0 base de garance, la plante end\u00e9mique de la r\u00e9gion, et imagin\u00e9 des s\u00e9rigraphies \u00e0 la main li\u00e9es \u00e0 la g\u00e9ologie du lieu, o\u00f9 cohabitent une nature fertile et une forte industrialisation. En quoi le motif et la couleur traduisent-ils l\u2019exp\u00e9rience de vivre ici ? C\u2019\u00e9tait tout le sens de la collection.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Votre choix d\u2019\u00eatre \u00e0 la fois studio de cr\u00e9ation et atelier de fabrication rappelle l\u2019ancien fonctionnement des maisons de couture. En mati\u00e8re de mode, faut-il revenir en arri\u00e8re ?<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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On regarde en arri\u00e8re pour s\u2019inspirer de l\u2019artisanat paysan, du domestic system du 18e si\u00e8cle. Mais la commercialisation directe par la vente en ligne, la communication sur les r\u00e9seaux, le patronage sur un logiciel open-source, tout cela fait d\u2019Usages un projet \u00e9minemment contemporain.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Vous revendiquez une d\u00e9marche artisanale et \u00e9cologique, pourquoi ?<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Notre projet est artisanal dans la fa\u00e7on de penser, de fabriquer mais aussi de commercialiser nos objets en toute autonomie. La mode \u00e9thique qui consiste \u00e0 fabriquer en France, \u00e0 partir de fibres venant de l\u2019autre bout du monde ou recycl\u00e9es ne nous semble pas suffisante pour amorcer un r\u00e9el changement. Notre objectif est de sortir de la dynamique industrielle pour mettre les agriculteurs et les artisans au centre des moyens de production.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Pourquoi avoir fait le choix de revisiter les v\u00eatements utilitaires ?<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Nous fabriquons les v\u00eatements que nous aimons porter, des coupes confortables et de belles mati\u00e8res. Comme la mode est somm\u00e9e de se renouveler trois \u00e0 quatre fois par an, elle n\u2019a souvent plus grand chose \u00e0 raconter. En optant pour des pi\u00e8ces utilitaires et intemporelles, nous voulons offrir un r\u00e9cit enthousiasmant sur l\u2019\u00e9cologie, sur le choix politique qu\u2019incarnent nos habits.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Qu\u2019est-ce qui fait la beaut\u00e9 d\u2019un v\u00eatement ?<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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La simplicit\u00e9 d\u2019une coupe, sa qualit\u00e9 visuelle mais aussi sensorielle. La beaut\u00e9 des mati\u00e8res<\/a> nous importe particuli\u00e8rement : le chin\u00e9 d\u2019une laine ou de fibres v\u00e9g\u00e9tales comme le coton et le lin. La qualit\u00e9 des fils donne au v\u00eatement sa richesse, c\u2019est pourquoi nous travaillons avec de jeunes tisserands qui redonnent sa gloire au tissage. Nous revendiquons la brutalit\u00e9 des mati\u00e8res et la sobri\u00e9t\u00e9 des tons pour r\u00e9v\u00e9ler la beaut\u00e9 d\u2019un v\u00eatement, loin des artifices chimiques de la mode actuelle. Il y a aujourd\u2019hui une m\u00e9connaissance totale du textile, alors qu\u2019il est le c\u0153ur du v\u00eatement. <\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Quels sont vos projets futurs ?<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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Aujourd\u2019hui, nous ne sommes que deux pour chercher des fournisseurs, produire et commercialiser nos pi\u00e8ces, \u00e7a repr\u00e9sente une charge de travail intense. Nous voulons am\u00e9liorer nos capacit\u00e9s de production en recrutant de nouvelles personnes et en revisitant notre positionnement, pour aller vers un vestiaire unisexe de pi\u00e8ces basiques et accessibles. On se pose aussi la question d\u2019une gamme demi-mesure, qui nous permettra d\u2019employer des textiles de grande qualit\u00e9, comme la laine fran\u00e7aise, en quantit\u00e9 plus limit\u00e9e.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>\n\n

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<\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/section>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Philippine Klahr et Guillaume Pavageau sont les cr\u00e9ateurs de la marque de pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter Atelier Usages. Activistes d\u2019une \u00ab mode utopique \u00bb \u2014 artisanale, \u00e9cologique et locale \u2014 ils s\u2019inspirent de la nature et des savoir-faire traditionnels pour fabriquer des v\u00eatements utilitaires qui ont une histoire. Apr\u00e8s deux ans pass\u00e9s \u00e0 Romans-sur-Is\u00e8re, c\u2019est \u00e0 Nantes qu\u2019ils […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":32,"featured_media":6279,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1012,1013],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6277","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-notre-actualite","category-rencontres"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nRencontre avec les cr\u00e9ateurs de la marque de pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter Atelier Usages<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Activistes d\u2019une \u00ab mode utopique \u00bb, Philippine et Guillaume s\u2019inspirent de la nature et des savoir-faire traditionnels pour fabriquer des v\u00eatements utilitaires qui ont une histoire.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link 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